One unpaved road runs the length of the place, so picking a base means picking which kilometre of that road you want to be on.
Playa Carmen — the crossroads
Where the road down from Cóbano meets the beach: supermarkets, ATMs, surf shops and the gentlest sand, all within walking distance. The most convenient base and the least atmospheric one.
Santa Teresa centre — the strip
North of the crossroads, where most of the hostels, beach clubs and restaurants sit. You can walk to everything, but the road is dirt: dust in the dry months, mud in the wet ones, and quad traffic all day.
Playa Hermosa — the quiet north end
Three to four kilometres north of the centre: a wider beach, a softer wave and far fewer places to eat. You will want a bike, a quad or a taxi for every dinner.
Mal País, south of the crossroads
The old fishing-village end, ten minutes south, smaller and quieter, with a rockier shoreline and the Cabo Blanco reserve close by. Suits people who want the peninsula without the strip.