San José · Food

A Saturday-morning producers' market in Barrio Aranjuez, north-east of the centre: coffee, cacao, cheese, bread and hot-food stalls, aimed at residents rather than tourists. Go early, because it winds down around midday.

The wholesale produce market a block north of the Mercado Central — loud, working, and where the fruit and the cheapest fondas are. It is a morning place that shuts down through the afternoon, so go before lunch and keep your bag in front of you.

A Costa Rican kitchen in a restored Amón house on Avenida 11, serving à la carte alongside an eight-course wood-fired tasting menu. This is the serious end of the city's cooking and it needs booking ahead.

Lunch in San José means a casado at a soda — rice, beans, plantain, salad and a protein on one plate, usually ₡3,000–4,500. Chifrijo, a bowl of rice, beans, fried pork and pico de gallo, was invented in a San José bar and is the standard thing to order alongside a beer.