Puerto Viejo · Things to do

The surf beach two kilometres south, with a lifeguard tower and a strong rip. Better waves than the town beach and a proper board crowd.

Small farms inland roast and grind their own beans; the tour ends with drinking chocolate made the way it was before sugar arrived.

A short, still river running out through mangrove to the beach. Rent at the river mouth and paddle up as far as the fallen trees.

Thirteen flat kilometres with a beach every few minutes. Leave in the morning, eat at the end of the road, ride back late afternoon.

The park's other end: a smaller, older Afro-Caribbean village with black sand, a few restaurants and none of Puerto Viejo's volume.