Cloud forest on the Continental Divide, permanently damp and frequently inside a cloud. Quaker settlers started the dairy in the 1950s; the reserves came later and made the name.
Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve
The original reserve straddling the divide, with trails to the continental split and a suspension bridge in the canopy. A guide finds far more than you will alone.
Curi-Cancha Reserve
Around eight kilometres of quieter trails 300m north-east of the cheese factory. Over 200 bird species recorded, including resplendent quetzal and three-wattled bellbird.
Selvatura Park
Hanging bridges plus a canopy tour of 13 ziplines and a Tarzan swing, with sloth, butterfly and reptile exhibits on the same site. Hotel pick-up is included.
Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve
Higher and wetter, with views towards Arenal on a clear day. Guided hikes and night tours are arranged by email or WhatsApp rather than online.
Monteverde Cheese Factory
The dairy the Quaker settlers founded, still making cheese and, more to the point, selling ice cream on the road out of Santa Elena.
The road is the point
However you come, the last stretch up to Santa Elena is unpaved and slow. A 4x4 is not essential in the dry season but is worth having after rain.
Jeep-boat-jeep from La Fortuna
The crossing of Lake Arenal is the quickest link east, roughly three hours door to door, and far better than driving round the lake.
Shuttles and buses
Tourist vans run daily from San José, La Fortuna, Manuel Antonio and Tamarindo. Public buses are a fraction of the price and take most of a day.
Best time to go
January to April is driest, though the mist never fully lifts, and the first half of the year gives the best chance of a quetzal.
Cheapest months
May, June, September and October are the cheapest and wettest, with the trails almost empty.
Priciest & busiest
Christmas, New Year and Easter week, plus July and August.
Morning
Be at a reserve gate at opening with a guide. Birds move in the first two hours and stop when the cloud thickens.
Late morning
Cross to Selvatura or Sky Adventures for the bridges, which work as well in mist as in sun.
Lunch
Back into Santa Elena. The village has cheap sodas as well as the places aimed at tour groups.
Afternoon
A coffee, cacao and sugar cane farm tour, or the orchid garden if the rain has set in properly.
Evening
A guided night walk. Sloths, tarantulas, snakes and olingos, and a torch you will be glad you did not bring yourself.