Jacó · Food

Small family kitchens serving casados at lunch for a fraction of what the avenue charges. They open early and close early — turn up at eight in the evening looking for one and you will find shutters.

An open-air centre on Pastor Díaz built around a creekside walking trail, with a run of restaurants, cafes and ice-cream places plus a pharmacy and a supermarket. Most units open around 8:00 and close around 21:00. It is the low-stress option with children or when the strip is too much.

A microbrewery and tasting room in a converted warehouse on the corner of Route 34 and Calle Madrigal, a block from the beach. Beer brewed on site, plus burgers, wings and salads; open-air and considerably calmer than the avenue.

Rice, beans, salad, fried plantain and a protein — the standard Costa Rican plate and the best value meal in town. The same plate costs noticeably more on the beach side of Pastor Díaz than it does behind it, and the version behind it is usually better.