Jacó

A long crescent of dark volcanic sand with a beach break that suits beginners at the southern end. Rips run strong; the water is not as gentle as it looks.

Five minutes south, a heavy beach break that hosts international contests and is not a learner's wave. Watch it from the road if you are in any doubt.

Half an hour north, transition forest where scarlet macaws are close to guaranteed. 7am-4pm December to April, 8am-4pm the rest of the year. US$10 plus tax, tickets online only.

The road bridge over the Río Tárcoles, with very large American crocodiles on the bank below. Free, ten minutes off the highway and busier than you would think.

The ruined hilltop house above the south end of town, reached on foot or by quad, with the whole bay underneath. Go before sunset and carry a torch for the way down.

Around ninety minutes on Ruta 27, the Caldera toll motorway, then south on the Costanera. It is the shortest airport-to-beach run in the country.

Direct buses leave San José through the day and take about two and a half hours. Tourist shuttles pick up from hotels and cost several times more.

Jacó is paved and walkable end to end. A car only helps if you want Playa Hermosa, Carara or the emptier beaches south on your own schedule.

December to April is dry and bright, and the surf is consistent all year round.

September and October are the cheapest and wettest, though mornings usually stay clear.

Christmas to New Year, Easter week and any long weekend, when San José empties onto this beach.

Drive north to Carara for opening and walk the universal access trail, which is 1.2km, flat and where the macaws usually are.

Back to Jacó for a surf lesson at the southern end, where the beach break is at its most forgiving.

Sodas one street back from the beach do casados for a fraction of what the seafront charges.

Down to Playa Hermosa to watch better surfers than you, or the crocodile bridge if the swell is flat.

Sunset on the sand at the north end, then along Avenida Pastor Díaz for as long as you can stand it.

Twenty minutes south, long grey-sand beaches with almost nobody on them. The contrast with Jacó is the whole reason to go.

Boats run from Playa Herradura north of town out to the white-sand island in the Gulf of Nicoya. A full day, fairly commercial, but the water is clear.