The Cartagena table — what to order and where the locals point.
Arepas de huevo
Egg fried inside an arepa — the street queens of the old town corners.
La Cevichería
The Bourdain-blessed ceviche counter — early or patient, no reservations.
Fruit from the palenqueras
Buy mango and papaya from the technicolor fruit ladies — and ask before photos.
Coctel de camarón carts
Shrimp cocktail cups from the seaside carts at dusk.
Getsemaní night grills
Plaza Trinidad's evening smoke: skewers, patacones, cold Águila.
