Most of Shanghai's night is outdoors and free — the Bund, the river, the concession streets — with a small and serious cocktail and jazz scene behind unmarked doors for the nights you want to spend money.
The Bund promenade after dark
The raised riverside walkway on the Puxi bank, free and open at any hour, facing the Pudong towers across the Huangpu. The busiest stretch is between East Nanjing Road and Yan'an Road; take metro line 2 or 10 to East Nanjing Road and walk five minutes east. Weekend evenings are shoulder to shoulder.
Jazz Bar, Fairmont Peace Hotel
Art deco room in the Fairmont Peace Hotel at the north end of the Bund, once called the Horse and Hound, where the Old Jazz Band — Guinness record holders for their longevity — play 1920s and 1930s standards nightly. Phone ahead on +86 21 6138 6881 for the evening's set times; drinks are hotel-priced.
Speak Low
Cocktail bar at 579 Fuxing Middle Road, entered through OCHO, a bar-tools shop, and spread over three floors that get quieter and more expensive as you climb. It was ranked tenth in the World's 50 Best Bars in 2017 and second in Asia the same year.
Huangpu River evening cruise
Sightseeing boats leave from Shiliupu Tourist Wharf at 481 East Zhongshan Road (No. 2), which is open 10:00–22:00 and in the evening handles mainly individual passengers rather than groups. The loop runs past the Bund and Lujiazui; buy at the pier on the night rather than in advance if the sky looks poor.
Anfu Road and Wukang Road
The Former French Concession's low-key evening strip — wine bars, small restaurants and coffee-and-cocktail places along Anfu Road running west from Changshu Road metro, with Wukang Road crossing it. It is a sitting-outside kind of night rather than a late one, and it winds down well before the Bund does.