Hutong dorms, a flat-cheap metro and imperial sights that mostly cost less than dinner.
Gulou and Nanluoguxiang
Courtyard hostels sit in the hutongs around the Drum Tower, walkable to the lakes and two metro lines. Quieter alternatives lie east towards Beixinqiao.
What a day costs
Roughly ¥180–350, about $25–50: dorm ¥70–120, street and canteen food ¥50–100, metro ¥15, one major site ¥40–60.
Metro, bikes and passports
Metro fares start at ¥3 and rise with distance; shared bikes unlock through Alipay or WeChat, which now accept foreign cards. Carry your passport for every gate.
Free by day
The 798 art district charges nothing to wander, nor does the Olympic Park, and Tiananmen Square is free with an advance booking and passport.
Houhai lakeside
The lake's south bank mixes hostel crowds, drum-and-guitar bars and locals swimming in summer and skating in January. Drinks are cheaper one lane back.