The Forbidden City, hutong breakfasts and the Wall snaking over the hills an hour away.
The Great Wall at Mutianyu
The restored-but-quiet section — cable up, toboggan down.
Forbidden City, booked ahead
Passport required, tickets sell out — enter south, exit north to Jingshan.
Jingshan hill view
The climb behind the palace: golden roofs to the horizon.
Hutong evening
Courtyard lanes around Houhai lake — dumplings, then lakeside bars.
Temple of Heaven mornings
Tai chi, ribbon dancers and the perfect blue rotunda.