Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales · Food

At Bories 430, facing the Plaza de Armas — a brewery running since 2006 and Patagonia's first brewpub, opened in 2010, pouring its own beer with pub food alongside. Menus are by QR code and orders go by WhatsApp, which is how the town works.

Trattoria and pizzeria at Arturo Prat 196 mixing Italian cooking with Patagonian ingredients, at long communal tables. It is the default place people end up the night before or the night after the trek, and it delivers if you cannot face going out.

Lamb splayed on an iron cross over an open fire is the regional dish and appears on every menu with a fire behind it; centolla, the southern king crab, is the other one and it is seasonal and expensive. Calafate berry turns up in everything from sours to ice cream.

Every trekker not on a full-board package shops in Puerto Natales, because there is nothing to buy on the trails and refugio meals are generally booked in advance with the bed rather than paid for on the day. Buy for the whole trek here and count on carrying all of it.