Everything edible is trucked up from Calama, so San Pedro prices sit above Santiago's; the compensation is Andean ingredients — quinoa, llama, rica-rica — you will not meet further south.
Calle Caracoles
The one street holding most of the village's restaurants, cafes and bakeries, running from the plaza toward the Licancabur road. Menus are aimed squarely at travellers and priced that way, but it is also where the cheap fixed lunches are at midday.
Café Adobe
Open-air courtyard restaurant at Caracoles 211, running since 1997, cooking with quinoa and local produce alongside pizzas and lomo a lo pobre. It keeps long hours — roughly 11:30 to 01:30 Monday to Saturday — which is useful after an evening tour.
Ckunna
Altiplano cooking at Caracoles 101-B, at the plaza end of the street, served in a walled garden. Smaller and calmer than the fire-pit places along the strip; reservations are taken by phone.
What to order, and when the kitchens shut
Llama, quinoa and Andean corn are the local ingredients worth going out of your way for, and sours made with rica-rica or chañar are the regional drink. Kitchens close early by Chilean standards and tours start before dawn, so aim for dinner between 19:00 and 21:00.