Phnom Penh

The Throne Hall and a pagoda floored in silver tiles, holding the crystal Emerald Buddha. Cover shoulders and knees or you will not get in.

The school the Khmer Rouge turned into S-21 prison. Open 8am to 5pm. Take the audio guide, allow two hours, keep the afternoon quiet.

Fifteen kilometres out of town, the execution site that S-21 fed. A memorial stupa, a field of hollows, and an audio tour that carries it.

Terracotta halls around a courtyard, holding the finest Angkorian sculpture in the country. A useful primer before or after Siem Reap.

Sisowath Quay for sunset and a drink, then the yellow art-deco dome of Psar Thmey for silverwork, watches and cheap lunch counters.

Techo International opened in 2025 and now takes all international flights, 20km south of the city. Old PNH keeps domestic and private jets.

Six to seven hours from Siem Reap, three to four from Kampot. Operators like Giant Ibis run comfortable coaches with assigned seats.

The Mekong crossing at Kaam Samnor links to Chau Doc; road buses to Ho Chi Minh City take six to seven hours via the Bavet border.

November to February: dry, and the Water Festival fills the riverfront.

June to September, when rain clears the streets and hotel rates drop.

December, January, and the Water Festival week in November.

Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda at opening, before the heat and the tour coaches arrive.

Cross to the National Museum for Angkorian statues in a cool, breezy courtyard.

Khmer curry or a baguette near the riverfront; the French bakery habit never left town.

Tuol Sleng, then the drive out to Choeung Ek. Heavy, essential, and best done in one run.

Sunset on Sisowath Quay, dinner in Bassac Lane, and rooftop bars that stay open late.

A short ferry north of the city: weaving workshops, riverside villages and flat lanes made for a slow bicycle afternoon.

The old royal capital, 40km north-west, where hilltop stupas hold the ashes of Cambodian kings and the view runs over rice fields.