Koh Rong · Food

From late afternoon the guesthouses set charcoal grills out on the sand and cook whatever the boats brought in — fish, squid, chicken — with rice and salad, from around US$2 a plate. It is the cheapest proper meal on the island.

A long-running guesthouse restaurant further along the beach from the pier, doing Thai curries and British pub food in large portions. Useful when you want a table and a fan rather than a plastic chair on the sand.

The lane behind Sok San beach is where the island's non-resort eating happens: Khmer kitchens such as The Moon, and Eat Pray Love for pizza and gnocchi. Meals run around US$2, against resort prices fifty metres away.

Amok trey — coconut-milk fish curry steamed in a banana leaf — is Cambodia's signature dish and worth ordering from a Khmer kitchen rather than a Western-run bar. Everything on the island is cash only, in dollars and riel.