Koh Rong · Backpacking

Reckon on about US$2 for a plate off the beach grills or from a Khmer kitchen, US$5.50–7 for a pizza, and beer from about US$0.75 in the cheapest Koh Touch bars. Budget rooms on the outer beaches start around US$20–30 a night, and the ferry is the single largest line in the day.

Speed Ferry Cambodia has run boats out of Sihanoukville since 2000 and calls at Koh Touch, Long Set, Palm Beach and Sok San, so you can land on the beach you booked instead of paying for a second boat.

The other scheduled operator, booking online for Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem and the coastal towns. Between the two companies most beaches get at least one boat a day — check which one actually stops where you are staying before you book a room.

Giant Ibis runs the Phnom Penh–Sihanoukville expressway route and an overnight sleeper down from Siem Reap, both landing you near the ferry port. Booking direct on its own site avoids the guesthouse mark-up.

The rooms furthest out, from around US$20–30, buy you an empty beach at the price of no shops, no wi-fi and no way to change your mind after the last boat. Bring more cash than you think you need.