Battambang · Food

The old market hall in the middle of town, at its best early for noodle soup and num banh chok and for fruit at any hour. The cooked-food stalls cluster around the edges rather than under the roof.

Khmer cooking on Street 2 beside Psar Nat, open 10am to 10pm every day, run as a social enterprise by the Cambodian Children's Trust with profits going to its staff and its programmes. Small, so book at busy times.

Carts and stalls set up along the Sangker promenade from late afternoon — grilled meat, fried noodles, sugarcane juice — and this is where the town eats outdoors rather than in restaurants. Cheapest dinner in Battambang and its busiest hour.

This province grows the rice the rest of Cambodia rates most highly, and locally a place is judged as much on its rice as on what arrives on top of it. Order amok, lok lak or a fish soup and expect the rice to come separately and to be better than you are used to.