The Salvador table — what to order and where the locals point.
Acarajé from the baianas
Black-eyed-pea fritters split and stuffed with vatapá and shrimp — Dinha's in Rio Vermelho is legend.
Moqueca baiana
The coconut-dendê seafood stew, bubbling in its clay pot — order for two.
Mercado Modelo & the lower city
Cachaça counters and handicrafts where the bay trade began.
Cocada & quindim
Coconut sweets from street trays — Bahia's sugar heritage.
Caruru Fridays
The okra-and-shrimp offering shared on Fridays — food as religion, literally.