Uyuni eats like the railway town it is: a market that opens early for the tour crews, a short run of pizza-and-llama places for the visitors, and not much in between.
Mercado Central — the set lunch
The town market does an almuerzo of soup, a main and a drink for a fraction of what the tourist streets charge, and api with a fried pastel first thing in the morning. Cash only, and it winds down through the afternoon.
Tika, Avenida Potosí 113
Bolivian cooking taken seriously — quinoa, chuño, llama, Andean chillies — from a kitchen that also runs the restaurant at the salt hotel out at Colchani. The most ambitious food in town, and priced for it.
Minuteman Revolutionary Pizza, Avenida Ferroviaria 60
Pizza and large breakfasts inside the Toñito Hotel, a fixture on this street for years. It is the warm room in town after a day on the flat, which counts for more here than the cooking does.
Llama, quinoa and api
Llama steak and quinoa soup are ordinary local food here rather than novelties, and api — hot purple-maize drink — with a fried pastel is the standard cold-morning breakfast. Buy water and snacks in town before a multi-day tour; there are no shops on the circuit.