The Dinant table — 6 places, 0 of them MICHELIN-starred. Filter by what you want and by price, or sort cheapest first.
La Broche
French market cooking
A small dining room on rue Grande going since 1998, with Eric Fieuw cooking and his wife front of house; he trained as a maître-pâtissier, so the last course is not an afterthought. Closed Monday evening and all day Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.
Order: Sea bass baked in a soft mint crumble; potato purée with leek and a creamed fish sauce; the desserts, which the chef makes himself
Why go: The most consistent kitchen in Dinant for nearly thirty years, in a town whose riverfront is mostly aimed at coach parties.
Locals order: Take the Marché du midi at €32 for starter, main, coffee and mignardises; it is the best-value meal on this stretch of the Meuse.
book ahead; open Friday to Monday lunch
Le Confessionnal
Regional French
A brocante-filled neighbourhood restaurant opposite Leffe abbey, all red-checked cloths, silverware and porcelain tureens. Lunch Monday to Friday and dinner on Thursday and Friday only, closed Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, and reservations are taken by telephone only.
Order: Trout brought to the table in a soup bowl in a sharp thyme-and-bay marinade; beef cheeks cooked slowly in a rich jus; grandmother-style classics off a short carte
Why go: It faces the abbey that gave Leffe its name and it is shut precisely when the visitors are in town.
Locals order: It is a lunch restaurant five days a week and a dinner restaurant two; the weekday lunch is the service locals actually use.
telephone bookings only; closed Saturday and Sunday
CCnomie
Wallonian regional
David Coisman cooks in the converted barn of his family's 1800 farm at Falmignoul, a village inside the Dinant commune about ten minutes south by car. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday, and there are rooms attached if you would rather not drive back.
Order: Vitello tonnato with soy-marinated tuna; lacquered pigeon with a crisp beignet of the leg and a blackcurrant-scented jus; one set menu, recited rather than printed
Why go: The best cooking in the Dinant commune is not in Dinant at all; it is in a farm barn in a village most visitors never reach.
Locals order: There is no card to read from, so say what you do not eat when you book rather than when you sit down.
book ahead; closed Tuesday and Wednesday
Le Café Ardennais
Ardennes brasserie grill
A café-brasserie-grill facing Dinant station on Avenue Franchet d'Esperey, built around the pierre chaude, where the meat comes raw on a hot stone and you cook it yourself. Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner and straight through on Sunday and public holidays; bookings by telephone.
Order: House-made grey shrimp croquettes; an Angus pavé cooked on the hot stone at your table; meatballs in a Leffe sauce
Why go: The Sunday option in a town where the good kitchens all close at the weekend.
Locals order: Order the duo de croquettes rather than a single plate: one grey shrimp, one Orval cheese, which is the local starter.
telephone only; open Sunday straight through
Couques V. Collard 1774
Honey biscuit maker
A shop on rue Grande making the town's own biscuit, wheat flour and honey pressed into carved wooden moulds and baked hard at around 300°C until the honey caramelises. The family has made them since 1774 and a 125g piece costs a few euro.
Order: The couque de Dinant in the coeur mould; the cheval; the grappe de raisins
Why go: Dinant's biscuit is too hard to bite, which is the whole point, and this is the house that has been making it since the eighteenth century.
Locals order: Do not bite it. Break it into pieces and let them dissolve, or drop them into coffee; that is how it is eaten here.
walk-in shop
Crêperie Bretonne Le Dinan
Breton crêperie
A Breton crêperie on Avenue Winston Churchill doing buckwheat galettes and sweet crêpes alongside salads and croques. No reservations at all, which in Dinant on a Sunday is worth knowing.
Order: Galette Bœuf sauce à la Leffe; Galette Ardennaise; sweet crêpes with chocolate, fruit or caramel
Why go: The cheap, no-booking fallback in a town whose better restaurants are shut three or four days a week.
Locals order: The galettes carry local fillings, Ardennes ham and a Leffe sauce among them, rather than straight Breton ones; that is the part of the list worth reading.
walk-in only, no reservations