A shape-shifting capital of Art Nouveau streets, surrealists and EU suits, with Europe's best beer cafes and late-night frites.
Grand-Place at first light
The gilded guildhall square is genuinely empty before 8am. Come back after dark when the whole facade is floodlit.
Cantillon lambic brewery
A working 1900 gueuze brewery near Midi. Self-guided tour ends with two sour beers. Closed Wednesdays and Sundays.
Atomium
The 1958 World's Fair steel molecule out at Heysel, with escalators between spheres and a panorama sphere on top.
Horta Museum
Victor Horta's own Saint-Gilles house, the Art Nouveau benchmark, built around a stairwell of glass and wrought iron.
Marolles flea market
Place du Jeu de Balle runs a junk market daily from 6am. Weekends are biggest; haggling is expected, not rude.
Fly Brussels (BRU)
The main airport, 12km northeast. The Airport Express train reaches Brussels-Central in about 20 minutes, four times an hour.
Fly Charleroi (CRL)
Ryanair's 'Brussels South' base, 50km away. A shuttle bus runs to Brussels-Midi in roughly an hour; book it ahead in summer.
Eurostar to Midi
Direct high-speed trains from London, Paris, Amsterdam and Cologne arrive at Brussels-Midi, most in under two hours.
Best time to go
May, June and September: warm terraces, long light, no August shutdown
Cheapest months
January to March, when the EU lull drags hotel rates right down
Priciest & busiest
July and August, plus December's Winter Wonders market weekends
Morning
Grand-Place before the crowds, then Manneken Pis and the glass-roofed Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert arcade.
Late morning
Climb to Place Royale for the Magritte collection, then the Mont des Arts terrace view back over the lower town.
Lunch
Moules-frites or waterzooi around Sainte-Catherine, well away from the tout-heavy Rue des Bouchers.
Afternoon
Walk the Art Nouveau streets of Saint-Gilles and Ixelles, taking in Horta's houses and comic-strip murals en route.
Evening
Beer flight at Moeder Lambic Fontainas, dinner nearby, then a late cone of frites from a street kiosk.