The Innsbruck table — 16 places, 0 of them MICHELIN-starred. Filter by what you want and by price, or sort cheapest first.
Oniriq
Creative tasting menu
Udo Herrmann cooks in a small room on Bürgerstraße with its own herb garden, four nights a week only, Wednesday to Saturday from 18.00 to midnight. The phone is answered between 14.00 and 17.30 on those days and not otherwise.
Order: A seven-course menu, offered vegetarian or with fish and meat; ferments and pickles carrying summer produce into winter; non-alcoholic pairings made in house
Why go: The most ambitious kitchen in Innsbruck and it opens fewer nights a week than most Alpine huts.
Locals order: Take the alcohol-free pairing; they make their own drinks rather than buying juice, and it is the part of the meal people talk about.
phone Wed-Sat 14.00-17.30; cancellation fees inside six hours
Sitzwohl
Modern Austrian
Irmgard Sitzwohl and Wolfgang Ehgartner cook in the Stadtforum, in the shell of the listed Gilmschule, with a bar, a terrace and a delicatessen attached. Monday to Friday only, 11.30 to 14.00 and 18.00 to 23.00, closed at weekends and on holidays.
Order: A lunch card that turns over weekly; a purist, stripped-back evening menu; preserves, sugos and soups from the in-house Geislerei counter
Why go: Innsbruck's most serious cooking sits inside a converted 1900s schoolhouse and shuts every Saturday.
Locals order: The Geislerei counter sells the kitchen's own sugos and preserves until 18.00; it is how locals take the restaurant home.
book by phone or online form; closed weekends
Das Schindler
Contemporary Tyrolean
Thomas Knittl cooks on Maria-Theresien-Straße in a modern, high-ceilinged room with a bar that runs until 1.00. Tuesday to Saturday, kitchen 11.30 to 14.00 and 18.00 to 21.30, closed Sunday, Monday and public holidays.
Order: Beef tartare from Tyrolean cattle; game in season; a two- or three-course lunch menu that changes daily
Why go: A kitchen that refuses industrial meat and flavour enhancers on a street otherwise given over to chain shopping.
Locals order: Reservations are taken by telephone only; there is no online system, and turning up at 20.00 on a Friday without one rarely works.
phone bookings only; email for parties of ten or more
lichtblick
International
On the top floor of the Rathausgalerien tower, above the roofline of the old town, with the mountains on three sides. Monday to Saturday 10.00 to 1.00, but hot food only from 12.00 to 14.00 and 18.30 to 22.00.
Order: A weekday lunch menu with the Nordkette filling the window; an evening card of regional and seasonal cooking; the terrace, which is the reason the room exists
Why go: The only dining room in Innsbruck that puts the Nordkette at eye level rather than overhead.
Locals order: Go up at the end of the afternoon between kitchen services, order a drink, and take the view without paying for a meal.
book by phone or email; ask for a window table
Die Wilderin
Alpine nose-to-tail
A dark, busy room on Seilergasse in the old town, buying whole animals and using all of them, with the house's own hunter and forager supplying part of the menu. They are explicit that there will be no strawberries in January and no avocados at all.
Order: Hand-cut carpaccio from aged cows; offal and off-cuts treated as the main event; whatever the fields around Innsbruck are producing that week
Why go: A kitchen that buys whole animals and puts the organs on the menu at the same price as the fillet.
Locals order: They keep the reservations in a paper book and answer by email when it is open; ring instead if you want a table this week.
phone or email only; no online booking system
Stiftskeller
Tyrolean tavern
A large restaurant and beer hall off Franziskanerplatz in the old town, pouring Munich's Augustiner alongside Tyrolean cooking, with a garden behind. Open daily 10.00 to 23.00, hot food 11.00 to 22.00, including Sundays and public holidays.
Order: The Innsbrucker Schnitzel, stuffed with ham, cheese, mushrooms and egg; Bauernschmaus; a whole roast pork knuckle on a beer and onion sauce
Why go: One of the few kitchens in the old town that still cooks at four in the afternoon and on a Sunday.
Locals order: The daily Wochenkarte is posted for the whole week and is half the price of the main card; ask for it by name.
book online or by phone; large capacity
Ottoburg
Tyrolean and Mediterranean
A listed medieval tower house at the end of Herzog-Friedrich-Straße, arranged as five small Stuben stacked over four floors, each named after a Habsburg. Open daily 11.30 to 15.00 and 18.00 to 22.30, including holidays.
Order: Tyrolean cooking with Mediterranean edges; game and regional fish in season; the view of the Goldenes Dachl from the first-floor Stube
Why go: Five separate panelled rooms in a medieval tower, and the choice of room changes the meal more than the menu does.
Locals order: Ask for the Maximilianstube or the Friedrichstube; both look north over the Inn to the Nordkette, and the others do not.
book by phone or email; ask for a named Stube
Weisses Rössl
Tyrolean
Three panelled historic rooms and a terrace on Kiebachgasse in the old town, claiming six hundred years of hospitality on the site, with game from the family's own shooting. Monday to Saturday 11.30 to 14.00 and 17.30 to 21.30, closed Sundays and holidays.
Order: Beef tartare from Tyrolean mountain cattle; Gröstl in several versions; Kaiserschmarrn, torn at the pan
Why go: Game shot by the house rather than bought in, served in a room that has been an inn since the fifteenth century.
Locals order: Sit on the terrace rather than inside if the weather allows; it is one of the few sunny spots in the old town lanes.
book online or by phone; closed Sundays
Fischerhäusl
Austrian tavern
A tavern on Herrengasse just off the main old-town circuit, quieter than the streets around it, with a big beer garden. Tuesday to Saturday 10.00 to 23.00, warm food 11.30 to 14.15 and 17.00 to 21.30, closed Sunday and Monday.
Order: Wiener Schnitzel, which is what the house is known for; Austrian tavern cooking off a daily card; the garden, which is the largest in this part of the old town
Why go: Two minutes from the Goldenes Dachl and almost none of the coach traffic that reaches it.
Locals order: The kitchen shuts between 14.15 and 17.00; the garden stays open, so it works as an afternoon drink even when the food stops.
book online; closed Sunday and Monday
Café Arkadenhof
Regional with international edges
Reached through a passage off Maria-Theresien-Straße into a hidden courtyard garden, with the dining room set around it. Monday to Saturday 9.00 to 23.00, kitchen 11.00 to 21.00, closed Sundays and holidays except for large events.
Order: Regional cooking with international influences; a strong vegetarian section, which is unusual here; wine pairings suggested by the glass
Why go: A walled garden hidden behind the busiest shopping street in the Tyrol, invisible from it.
Locals order: You have to walk through an indoor passage to find it; most people walk past the entrance twice before spotting the sign.
book online; ask for the courtyard
Café Munding
Patisserie and café
Tyrol's oldest confectioner, trading since 1803 in the Gumpphaus about a hundred metres west of the Goldenes Dachl, everything still baked on the premises. Tuesday to Saturday 9.00 to 18.00, closed Sunday and Monday.
Order: Torten and cakes made from family recipes going back generations; pralines and hot chocolate made with Valrhona; strudel from their own pastry kitchen on the same lane
Why go: Two hundred and twenty years in the same family and the same building, with the bakery still behind the shop.
Locals order: Buy pralines at the counter rather than sitting down; they use Valrhona and the counter turns over faster than the café.
walk in; closed Sunday and Monday
Café Central
Viennese-style coffee house
An 1884 coffee house on Gilmstraße that calls itself the most westerly Viennese Kaffeehaus, hung with Tyrolean art and stocking sixty-seven newspapers and magazines. Open daily 7.00 to 20.00, with jazz once a month.
Order: Guglhupf; apple and Topfen strudel with vanilla sauce; twenty-two coffee variations from a roaster the house has used for generations
Why go: Fourteen different breakfasts and sixty-seven newspapers, in a town that mostly gets up to go skiing.
Locals order: Breakfast runs from four euros to twenty-four; take the cheapest and the newspaper rack, which costs nothing.
walk in; open every day
Machete Burrito Kartell
Tex-Mex counter
A loud counter operation on Anichstraße, cash and cards both taken, no reservations of any kind. Tuesday to Sunday 11.30 until 1.00 with the kitchen running to 22.00, closed Mondays.
Order: Burritos built to order at the counter; the same fillings as bowls; late-night service that runs long after the Tyrolean kitchens have shut
Why go: The default late meal for anyone in Innsbruck under forty, and the kitchen runs to ten every night but Monday.
Locals order: The bar stays open to one in the morning after the kitchen closes at ten; students eat first and then stay put.
no reservations; queue at the counter
Markthalle Innsbruck
Market hall
A 1,875 square metre market hall on the Inn embankment with more than forty traders and seven food counters. Market Monday to Friday 7.00 to 18.00 and Saturday 7.00 to 13.00, but the food counters stay open until 22.00 every day.
Order: Bread, cheese and cured meat from the producer stalls; poke bowls and street food from the seven kitchens inside; fish and fresh produce from Tyrolean growers
Why go: The produce traders shut at six and the kitchens keep serving until ten, which makes it two different buildings in one day.
Locals order: Buy from the stalls in the morning and eat by the river in the evening; the food counters outlast the market by four hours.
no bookings; food counters run to 22.00
Strudel-Café Kröll
Strudel bakery
A family bakery-café on Hofgasse in the old town, running since 1976, with a garden a few steps from the Goldenes Dachl. Open daily 7.00 to 18.30, extended to 21.00 in summer, weekends and holidays included.
Order: Sweet strudels: apple, poppy seed, apricot, plum, berry; savoury ones: spinach, vegetable, meat, potato; breakfast with eggs from their own farm
Why go: Strudel is sold here as a savoury lunch as often as a sweet, which is how Tyroleans actually eat it.
Locals order: Order a spinach or potato strudel rather than the apple; the savoury ones are the local order and the queue rarely asks for them.
walk in; open every day of the year
Speckeria
Tyrolean cured meat
A cured-meat shop on Hofgasse in the old town, family-run since 1909 and now in the third generation, where you can taste the board before deciding what to carry away. The shop is the point; the eating is a way of choosing.
Order: Karreespeck, venison and wild boar ham cut to order; the Jausenbrettl, a board of the same eaten on the spot; alpine cheese and preserves alongside
Why go: A hundred and sixteen years of curing, and they will still cut a board so you can taste before you buy a kilo.
Locals order: Order the Jausenbrettl first and buy afterwards; speck keeps about three months at 15 to 18 degrees, which is worth knowing before you fill a bag.
walk in; shop hours, no bookings