Graz · Food

The city's main farmers' market on the square behind the opera, Monday to Saturday 6am–1pm, closed Sundays and public holidays. Growers' stalls plus standing places where people eat sausage and drink a glass of wine before lunch.

Smaller and cheaper than Kaiser-Josef, same hours of Monday to Saturday 6am–1pm, on the west bank. The produce stalls close with the market, but the food stalls around the square also open on Sundays.

Styrian cooking in a 400-year-old Renaissance building at Schmiedgasse 9, a minute off Hauptplatz. Open Monday to Saturday from midday until 1am, which also makes it one of the few kitchens in the centre still running late.

Styrian pumpkin seed oil is almost black-green and tastes of toasted nuts; it goes on salad, on cheese and, locally, on vanilla ice cream. Order Backhendlsalat — fried chicken on leaves with Käferbohnen and a slick of the oil — and you have the region on one plate.