Australia's culture capital: laneway espresso, hidden bars and footy religion.
Laneway breakfast
Hosier Lane's street art, then a flat white in Degraves Street's canyon.
Queen Victoria Market
The sprawling institution — doughnut van line is mandatory.
Hidden bar hunt
Melbourne perfected the unmarked door. Start on Meyers Place, ask bartenders.
St Kilda penguins
Little penguins come home to the breakwater at sunset, free.
Great Ocean Road day
The Twelve Apostles run — leave early, chase the light back.