The city where dinner starts at ten and the milonga starts at midnight.
San Telmo Sundays
The antiques fair swallows the whole barrio — tango dancers claim Plaza Dorrego.
Parrilla night
Bife de chorizo, malbec, and no rush whatsoever. Don Julio earns the queue.
A real milonga
Watch the locals dance tango socially — La Viruta or Salon Canning, after midnight.
Recoleta cemetery
A marble city of the dead, Evita's tomb hidden in its lanes.
Café notable mornings
Café Tortoni since 1858: cortado, medialunas, marble and ghosts.